Erbil, Iraq — also called Hawler — is described as one of oldest continuously inhabited cities in world. At heart of city is ancient Citadel of Erbil, possibly oldest continuously occupied human settlement on Earth, dating back at least 6,000 years. Its oval mound stands about 32 meters high, built from dirt, debris and collapsed mud houses from previous settlements, covering 110,000 square metres with 506 houses, inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage in July 2014.
From Urbilum To Arbela
Erbil is capital and most populated city in Kurdistan Region of Iraq and capital of Erbil Governorate, described as region’s cultural, economic, industrial, educational and medical hub, population 1.2 million estimate 2024 metro 1.4 million, area 115 km2 elevation 390 m. Modern town stands on tell topped by Ottoman fort. During Middle Ages, Erbil became major trading centre on route between Baghdad and Mosul, role it still plays today with important road links.
Name history records deep layers: Sumerian Urbilum ur-bi-lumki, Assyrian Arba’ilu — Arba Elu four gods — by Babylonians and Assyrians, Old Persian Arbairā, Greek Arbēla, Latin Arbela, Modern Standard Arabic Arbīl, Ottoman Turkish Arbil, Kurdish Hewlêr Hawler, Syriac Arbēl. In ancient times patron deity was Ishtar of Arbela. According to International Council on Monuments and Sites ICOMOS, it’s considered oldest continuously inhabited city in world with around 6000 of age, presenting although quick expansion relatively compact form.
Human settlement may be dated back to 5th millennium BC, earliest evidence for occupation of citadel mound dates to 5th millennium BC and possibly earlier, settlement dated back possibly 6000 BC but no urban life until circa 2300 BC. First mention in literary sources comes from archives of kingdom of Ebla, they record two journeys to Erbil Irbilum by messenger from Ebla around 2300 BC. Earliest historical reference to region dates to Third Dynasty of Ur of Sumer when King Shulgi mentioned city of Urbilum. Neo-Sumerian ruler of Ur Amar-Sin sacked Urbilum in his second year circa 1975 BC. In 3rd millennium BC Erbil was independent power, conquered for time by Gutians, Erridupizir king of Gutium captured city in 2150 BC.
Six Thousand Years On One Mound
Beginning in late 2nd millennium BC it came under Assyrian control. Subsequent to this, it was part of geopolitical province of Assyria under several empires in turn, including Median Empire, Achaemenid Empire Achaemenid Assyria, Macedonian Empire, Seleucid Empire, Armenian Empire, Parthian Empire, Roman Assyria and Sasanian Empire, as well as being capital of tributary state of Adiabene between mid-second century BC and early 2nd century AD. Region fell under Neo-Assyrian Empire 935–605 BC. Under Medes, Cyaxares might have settled Sagartians in Arbela and Arrapha modern Kirkuk as reward for help in capture of Nineveh. Persian emperor Cyrus occupied Assyria in 547 BC and established it as satrapy Athura with Babylon as capital. Medes and Sagartians revolted against Darius I in 522 BC, revolt put down by army under General Takhmaspada, events depicted in Behistun Inscription in Kermanshah province.
Battle of Gaugamela in which Alexander defeated Darius III of Persia took place in 331 BC approximately 100 kilometres west of Erbil, Darius fled to city, confrontation sometimes known as Battle of Arbela. Subsequently Arbela was part of Alexander’s Empire, after death 323 BC part of Hellenistic Seleucid Empire. Town and kingdom are known in Jewish history for conversion of royal family notably Queen Helena of Adiabene to Judaism. Its populace then gradually converted from ancient Mesopotamian religion between first and fourth centuries to Christianity with Pkidha traditionally becoming first bishop around 104 AD. Adiabene East Syriac ecclesiastical province in Arbel became centre of eastern Syriac Christianity until late Middle Ages.
EXECUTIVE INSIGHT
Being so heavily occupied, site has never been properly excavated. In 2006 Karel Novacek of University of West Bohemia found citadel remains Ottoman Period but western slope pottery shards Neolithic to Middle Bronze Age with more numerous Late Bronze to Iron Ages and Hellenistic Arsacid Sassanid. In 2013 Sapienza University of Rome conducted ground penetrating radar on centre, 2014 Iraqi-led excavation began where collapse of modern building provided opportunity. Wider plain Tell Baqrta 80 hectare Early Bronze Age site surveyed by Erbil Plain Archaeological Survey since 2012.
Following Muslim conquest of Persia region no longer remained united, during Middle Ages ruled by Seljuk and Ottoman empires. Most notable Kurdish tribe Hadhabani governors from late tenth century until 12th century when conquered by Zengids governorship given to Turkic Begtegenids most notable Gökböri who retained city during Ayyubid era. Yaqut al-Hamawi describes Erbil mostly Kurdish-populated in 13th century. Mongols invaded Near East attacked Arbil first time 1237 plundered lower town but retreated before Caliphate army. After fall of Baghdad to Hülegü 1258 last Begtegenid ruler surrendered, Kurdish garrison refused, Mongols returned captured citadel after six-month siege, appointed Christian Assyrian governor, Syriac Orthodox Church allowed to build church. In Spring 1310 Malek attempted to seize citadel from Assyrian inhabitants with Kurds, bishop Mar Yahballaha tried avert doom, citadel taken 1 July 1310 defenders massacred. City’s Assyrian population remained numerically significant until destruction by Timur in 1397. Erbil’s archaeological museum houses large collection of pre-Islamic artifacts particularly art of Mesopotamia.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where Is Erbil Citadel Located?
At heart of Erbil capital of Kurdistan Region Iraq, modern town stands on tell topped by Ottoman fort, 115 km2 elevation 390 m, trading centre route between Baghdad and Mosul, with Mudhafaria Minaret nearby, Arab Tourism Capital 2014.
How Old Is Erbil As Continuously Inhabited City?
Human settlement 5th millennium BC possibly 6000 BC, considered oldest continuously inhabited city around 6000 years per ICOMOS, possibly oldest occupied settlement on Earth. No urban life until c.2300 BC, first Ebla mention around 2300 BC, Shulgi of Ur Third Dynasty mentioned Urbilum, Amar-Sin sacked 1975 BC.
What Names Has Erbil Had Through History?
Sumerian Urbilum, Assyrian Arba’ilu four gods Arba Elu, Old Persian Arbairā, Greek Arbēla Latin Arbela, Arabic Arbīl Ottoman Arbil, Kurdish Hawler Hewlêr, Syriac Arbēl, patron Ishtar of Arbela, also called City of Citadel and Minaret.
Which Empires Ruled Erbil?
Sumerian c.3000 BC, Akkadian 2335-2154, Gutian 2150 BC, Middle Assyrian 1365-1050, Neo-Assyrian 935-605, Median, Achaemenid Athura 547 BC, Macedonian after Gaugamela 331 BC 100 km west, Seleucid, Armenian, Parthian, Roman, Sassanian, capital Adiabene mid-2nd BC early 2nd AD, Seljuk Ottoman Mosul vilayet until WWI British.
What Is Erbil Citadel Made Of And Why UNESCO?
Oval mound 32 meters 100 feet high built from dirt debris collapsed mud houses previous settlements, 110000 sqm 506 houses, symbol coexistence diverse ethnic religious communities. Inscribed UNESCO July 2014 as oldest continuously inhabited settlements over 6000 years, never properly excavated, 2006 western slope Neolithic to Sassanid shards, 2013 GPR, 2014 Iraqi-led dig after collapse.
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Erbil endures because its ground is its own archive. Thirty-two meters of collapsed houses, pottery from Neolithic to Sassanid, Ottoman walls over Assyrian foundations — the mound records continuity not by monument but by accumulation. To walk its 506 houses is to understand that oldest inhabited does not mean unchanged, but inhabited without pause, a city that never ceased being built from itself.


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